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The darker skin dilemma

Monday, June 18, 2012   |  
The darker skin dilemmaWomen with darker skins have been wondering the beauty aisles of stores for years, never quite being able to find the product that suits their complexions perfectly. It has only been over the last five to eight years that beauty houses have realised the untapped market of the darker complexion.

While big brands like Estee Lauder and Clinique and L'Oreal (L'Oreal, Maybelline, SoftSheen-Carson) have been leading the market, they've only over the past few years pushed their marketing strategies hard at this segmented group of women. In 2000, L'Oreal established the L'Oreal Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research and began putting a third of its $360-million research and development budget towards black hair and skin care.

So why is it that women like myself have had to wait so long for beauty products that suit our complexions? Researchers say beauty houses have never really had the kind of data they do now. And that it made more business sense to focus on the Caucasian market. I find this hard to believe, as it's a well known fact that black and Asian women spend up to three times more on beauty products than their lighter-skinned sisters.

At the recent Women's Wear Daily Beauty Summit, former supermodel and now beauty mogul spoke out against retailers and big businesses who refused to see the value in beauty products for women of colour.

'I have customers from all over the world that look for the products, but I also have customers in the US that can't find the product in a store near them,' she said, adding that when she first launched her line of cosmetics, 'it was a no-go. They wanted me to be placed at the back, which they considered, like it is, for the ethnic section, which I was totally against it for no other reason but because also I never considered myself an ethnic brand.'

I, for one, know how hard it is to find the right shade of foundation, because on darker skin tones, our skins are often more than one shade. And then you have to move on to eye colours and lip colours and not to mention cheek colours. But that's why I'm a beauty editor, to test, try and report back to you!

Foundation

With its IntuiTone technology, Estee Lauder's Invisible Fluid Makeup has been designed to match your skin colour. Don't get me wrong, there isn't only one shade (actually there are 16), but once you find the shade that suits, it blends really well. The buildable foundation is novel in that it needs to be shaken first, but it's oil-free and will even your skin tone.

Eyes, Lips & Cheeks

Luxury Lip Shimmer, Perfect Mascara, Eye Defining Powder, Sheer Finish Bronzing Powder and more. Who better to take colour cues from than Iman herself? Her luxury cosmetics lines are specifically designed with women of colour (including black, Asian and Latina) in mind.

Skincare

Johnson & Johnson have for years relied on Neutrogena's oil and shine control ranges and marketed them towards women with darker skin, who they say are more prone to oiliness. But they've also recently launched their African Nurture range of body lotions, creams and cleansers. Neutrogena has been my skincare brand of choice for a while now, but if you're looking for something more fragrant, give Johnson's African Nurture a try too.

These days L'Oreal are punting their Garnier Even and Oil Control Complete skincare range to leave skin feeling soft, shine free and, you guessed it, even in skin tone.


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Hess Hess says:
May 13, 2013 at 9:08 PM

Black Up make-up could be the answer!

kunene kunene says:
April 25, 2013 at 4:42 PM

I did not realise that you had such a wealth of information on dark skin tones...thank you beauty SA,I am addicted again after a long sabbatical.

Gervase Gervase says:
April 24, 2013 at 10:21 AM

This is so true. I have searched for a foundation or powder for my colour complexion and its very difficult. I am currently using a powder which has an orangish tone to it because even the darkest brown is still too light for me

Tasha Tasha says:
December 21, 2012 at 11:22 AM

Nice article

Nuuh Nuuh says:
December 17, 2012 at 3:28 PM

Thank u for the article I have been struggling for years to find a foundation that suits my skin and does not make me shiny when its hot

smiley smiley says:
November 30, 2012 at 8:02 AM

Eyes lips and cheeks :)

smiley smiley says:
November 28, 2012 at 3:54 PM

i've tried almost everything!! i either look too pale or too dark, can't quite figure my complexion :(

Fuzzylilbunny Fuzzylilbunny says:
October 29, 2012 at 7:33 AM

There really aren't enough products which adequately cater for us women with darker skin. My skin tone is a medium/dark colour, and when I look for a good foundation, they are all either a bit too dark, or the right shade but make me look a bit yellow.

foreverGLAM foreverGLAM says:
October 13, 2012 at 5:50 PM

Finding the right shade of foundation definitely is a struggle but I'll use the tips on this article.

Hima Hima says:
September 21, 2012 at 12:16 PM

WIll give Johnson's African Nurture a try!!!!

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Beauty South Africa Megan Kakora
Megan Kakora has helped launch the websites of, and been the online editor for, some of South Africa’s biggest glossy magazines. She believes in less-is-more, except when it comes to her collection of nail polish colours.
Megan on Google+




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